Making snowman decorations.
Spending my first holiday season away from home has been hard, but there are so many things I’ve been able to experience in China the last month which make it all worth it.
During the three weeks leading up to Christmas, I taught the kids a new song every week and had a corresponding craft activity. Week one: Frosty the Snowman and snowman garland; week two: Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer and Reindeer made from tracing hands and feet; week three: Must be Santa and Santa Claus made from cotton and colored paper. The kids loved it, and I’ll admit…I had just as much fun! I also made an advent calendar, which we looked at each day during class. This allowed the kids to learn 25 new Christmas-themed vocabulary words. Who said learning wasn’t fun?!?
For our class Christmas party I had four stations with various activities for the kids: pin the nose on Rudolph, candy relay, snowflake making, and Christmas card making. Even though Christmas is not the big production here that it is in the States (they decorate the shops in Shanghai, but most people don’t exchange gifts or celebrate on the day), teaching my Chinese students was a new way to experience the spirit of Christmas.
Teacher's pets making Christmas cards.
Next up is New Years. They celebrate both January 1st and Chinese New Year (based on the solar calendar) here. Chinese New Year is the most important holiday in China, and I can’t wait to experience it here!
My kids have already taught me a New Years song:
(Sung to the melody of Oh My Darlin’ Clementine)
Xin nian hao ya. Xin nian hao ya. Zhu he da jia xin nian hao. Wo men chang ge. Wo men tiao wu. Zhu he da jia xin nian hao.
(Translation: Happy New Year! Happy New Year! We wish everyone a happy new year! We sing and we dance! We wish everyone a happy new year!)
In Paris there is a neighborhood known as le Marias. It is a chic yet bohemian area still containing the narrow pedestrian streets of the “old Paris” before Haussmannisation. Here you can find an endless supply of cafes, clothing boutiques, and antique shops conforming to various price ranges. It is simply one of the most intriguing places in Paris, where you never have to see the same thing twice (at least not if you don’t want to), and I have found China’s version right here in Shanghai.
Tai Kang Alley, also called Tian Zi Fang, is a constant work-in-progress. The many narrow cobbled alleyways that make up the area form a labyrinth filled with an ever-increasing and evolving collection of upscale boutiques, restaurants, and galleries dealing in specialty goods.
Renovation of the area’s once entirely residential streets began in 2007. However, more interesting than the renovators’ attempts to recreate a sort of bohemian Parisien cafe culture are the distinctly Chinese aspects of Tian Zi Fang. Most notably, the buildings’ juxtaposition of the old Shanghai shikumen architecture on the upper levels with the very modern spaces below is quite fascinating. In fact, many elderly Shanghainese still reside in these upper level apartments. You can turn down a back alley, away from the bustling shoppers looking to buy their expensive pashminas, silk paintings, and double lattes, and quickly find yourself in someone’s “backyard.” Several times in search of particularly elusive boutiques I found myself face-to-face with Shanghainese aunties hanging the family laundry out to dry.
With shop prices much too steep for this kindergarten teacher, I opted to enjoy the area by simply walking around and capturing this truly unique place through my camera lens.
Tian zi fang shops
Artist's brushes
Residents' laundry and birds
Laundry drying at sunset
For Golden Week in China, also known as Mid-Autumn Festival, the whole country gets a week vacation. Taking full advantage of this opportunity, several of my fellow English teachers and I left Shanghai and traveled to Chengdu (Sichuan Province) in western China. Chengdu is famous for tea culture and serves as the home to China’s national treasure: the giant panda. Additionally, the world’s awareness of Chengdu heightened after the May 2008 earthquake, which greatly affected the entire Sichuan region.
Here’s a list of my five favorites during our week there.
1. Giant Buddha at Leshan
Giant Buddha (Leshan, China)
This colossal Tang Dynasty (618-907) Buddha, carved into a hillside, is the largest carved stone Buddha in the world. It is located in Leshan, about an hour drive from Chengdu, and is definitely worth a day trip or a stop-off on the way to Emei Shan. There are two ways to visit the site: to either climb up the carved stairway that runs parallel to the Buddha on the cliff side or to view the Buddha from one of the many tourist boats that will take you on the river directly in front of it. We opted to take one of the riverboats (about 120 RMB) in order to get the best views for picture-taking. The ride lasts about 20 minutes, ten of which the boat stops to allow you to take photos in front of the carving. This was absolutely one of the most magnificent scenes in Chengdu.
2. Golden Summit at Emei Shan
Golden Summit (Emei Shan, China)
Emei Shan is one of the four sacred Buddhist mountains in China and an absolutely amazing location for anyone who loves something a little more adventurous. The Golden Summit is on the second tallest peak of the mountain (about 3,000 m). We opted to take a bus about 2,500 m up and hiked the last 500 meters. This is definitely not an easy journey. The trail is stone stairs, as with all mountains in China, and for the most part extremely steep. It took us around two hours to reach the summit, but it was more than worth it. What we beheld was absolutely magical and breathtaking: a sea of clouds beneath us, azure skies, and an enchanting gilded statue. The summit contains several structures, most notably the statue pictured here, as well as a temple and monastic buildings. Nine days out of ten this area of the mountain is completely enshrouded with cloud cover. We were infinitely lucky in being able to experience beautifully clear moments at the top. This was most definitely my favorite experience in Chengdu, and I can’t urge anyone visiting there enough to pay this truly magnificent place a visit.
3. Joking Monkey Zone on E mei Shan
Emei Shan also has an area known as the Joking Monkey Zone. The walk through this area is about 30 minutes and every step of the way is filled with constant anticipation of a visit from one of the many wild monkeys who live on the mountain. They are mostly contained within this area because many tourists feed them the approved corn snacks for sale, and they have become very aggressive though somewhat tame in their interactions with hikers. We had several latch on to our backpacks in search for food and many would allow you to walk startlingly close to them. There were many “monkey-slayers” (our invention for their title) on hand to help if the monkeys got “too friendly.” The slayers carry rocks and sticks to keep over-aggressive monkeys off of frightened tourists. We were all half-amused half petrified walking through the monkey zone. Nervous giggles abounded as we turned each corner checking for monkeys. All in all, it was a really amazing, albeit a little unsettling, experience.
4. Historic Kuan Xiang Zi Alley
Historic door handles
The hostel where we stayed in Chengdu was right in the middle of the narrow pedestrian streets of Kuan Xiang Zi Alley. This is known as one of the premier tourist areas of the city and abounds with street vendors selling delicious snacks and trinkets, upscale restaurants, ice cream shops, and even a Starbucks. Though crowded, I found this area charming, particularly because of the maintenance of the old-time feel even though many of the buildings have been extensively renovated and restored.
5. Surprise Teahouse Ear Cleanings
Maybe one of the most seemingly bizarre practices in Chengdu is the teahouse ear cleaning. If you sit in a Chengdu teahouse for any length of time, you will eventually hear the ringing of metal being clanked together. This comes from the tools of the many “ear-cleaners” of the city. They go around to tea houses looking for customers, and the entire process is actually quite fascinating. They have many tools from metal scrapers to feathered wands. While taking a cup of tea with a friend, we had one such ear-cleaner approach us. After many moments of convincing, I finally allowed him near my ear. The closest thing I can describe the sensation to is butterfly wings beating in your ear. It was an odd experience that one can only have in a place like Chengdu.
Eating bing tang hu lu in People's Park.
Fall is officially here in Shanghai. The weather has been lovely, cool and crisp, since my return from Chengdu (western China) after the National Holiday.
Juicy persimmon.
And with the cooler weather have come several new additions to the usual Shanghai snack (xiao chi: little eats) scene. Amidst the typical steamed buns, dumplings, and noodles; baked sweet potatoes, corn, yu tiao (literally oil strips), and persimmons have appeared. The moon cakes that ushered in the fall season have all but disappeared, now demoted to the discount shelves, and been replaced by steaming hot sugary soy milk and bing tang hu lu (candied fruit).
Gluten Balls in Chengdu
With all there is to choose from along the grocery store aisles and inside the street stalls, these seasonal treats have quickly become top-of-mind for me, erasing not only fashion but essentially all else from my mind as well.
Now, the question is: what’s to eat?
Do you have any favorite foods from your travels? Share in the comments below!
I have officially been living in China for a little over a month now, and the entire experience has been a roller-coaster of emotions. This is not my first time traveling to a foreign country, nor my first solo trip, however this is the first time I’ve lived in a foreign country on a semi-permanent basis (one-year assignment).
Before I left for Shanghai, I read an excellent article on Matador Network about the phases of culture-shock and how to combat them. Having lived in Paris solo last summer for four weeks, I wasn’t too concerned about home-sickness or any kind of cultural freak-out. And, while there hasn’t been a lowest of the low point yet during my time here, living in China is definitely proving to be more challenging emotionally than I had anticipated.
1. Say Goodbye to Anonymity
As I walk through the crowded streets of my Shanghai neighborhood, I am the only one with light hair and blue eyes. Plus, my extremely pale complexition starkly contrasts with the tan skin of those around me. Stares are coming from all sides at a mile a minute, some friendly and some not so much, but the common vein is that I can forget the idea of becoming invisible or losing myself in a crowd.
2. Why Can’t I Understand You?
I think one of the biggest contributors to culture shock is the lack of a shared language. Being in China, this is the first time I’ve been somewhere that I don’t have a very strong foundation in the local language. Though I have little difficulty getting by with my one year of college-level Mandarin, it is not enough to truly connect with people beyond the superficial or make Chinese-speaking friends. This causes one to never feel integrated into the culture, much less accepted.
3. I Miss American Things
Wow! I can’t believe I’m admitting to this, but it’s true! As much as I miss my family, friends, and TexMex, what I seem to miss the most are random American ways of thought or cultural values. Being from Texas, I think this is acutely felt. Hearing songs like “Country Road” have the effect of almost bringing me to tears. Here I have huge cravings to simply watch old re-runs, listen to country music, and eat a buttermilk biscuit. I guess I think this will bring me closer to the American values I am missing here.
4. Why Do You Call Me That?
In America there is a racial slur for most every ethnic group. These have evolved over time and are seen as politically incorrect and generally unacceptable. China is a little different. Though they have ethnic minorities that all fall into the category of Chinese, they do not have the overwhelming immigrant population that largely makes up the United States. Therefore, anytime they see someone who doesn’t look like them, they immediately know it is not an immigrant but a wai guo ren (literally outside the country person). The closest equivalent in English is foreigner. I am constantly called a wai guo ren in China. In fact, many people shout it as I walk past to alert others. It is not a derogatory or mean-spirited term, but simply indicates that I am not Chinese. However, the Chinese have another word they use to refer to foreigners: lao wai (literally old outside). Calling someone a lao wai might be similar to calling an American person a gringo/a in Mexico. However the term also carries the connotation that the person is stupid and generally inferior. Many may argue with me on this. In fact, the Chinese say that there is nothing negative meant by it, but it is just a cute or teasing term. Regardless, I despise this word. Since my arrival in China I’ve only been called lao wai twice (to my face), both times on the street. Once was by an older man and the other by a small child with his grandparents. The first time I started to cry and wanted to turn around and yell obstinacies at the man, and the second time my feelings were severely hurt, but I really just wanted to hide.
They talk about four stages of culture shock in the Matador article: wonder, frustration, depression, and acceptance. I think I battle with and totter between frustration and depression every day. However, there are many times when I travel outside of Shanghai or see something new that I am filled with absolute wonder. I believe I will likely continue to struggle against some form of culture shock throughout my trip. In fact, it’s only natural. However, I am hoping I will soon learn to accept my position here and be at peace with the four things that so far make it much more difficult to live here than I had initially thought.
See link to Matador’s: The Four Stages of Culture Shock (And How to Beat Them).
Porcelain found under the sink.
I love the scene in Under the Tuscan Sun when Frances (Diane Lane) has just moved into her newly bought property in Tuscany and is exploring all of the splendors and indiosyncracies it has to offer. I have inherited 10,000 empty wine bottles, one grape, every issue of ‘La Nazione’ printed in 1958, and assorted previous tenants.
Though my apartment didn’t come with any wine or even a grape, I do seem to have inherited various odds and ends from DVDs to what looks to be a Chinese manuscript to some beat-up wires. However, my prize, which I found under the kitchen sink, is a complete blue and white porcelain dining set. I found this treasure in a large cardboard box wrapped in plastic that looked as if it hadn’t been touched in several decades. The cardboard was wet and much of the box mildewed; however, all of the chinaware is in tact and gorgeous. Before I could even go to the store for paper plates or a coffee mug, I had a 50-piece China set complete with bowls, plates, sauce holders, serving spoons, and a casserole dish.
My apartment might not be the most luxurious, but atleast I feel like a queen when I eat my peanut butter and banana sandwiches off my exquiste blue and white china set.
Infront of Shanghai's famous teahouse in Yu Gardens.
I have officially arrived in China and begun my life as an English teacher in Shanghai. I am teaching “kindergartners” (3 to 6 year olds) at two different private schools.
I live just south of the city-center near the Xuhui district. My neighborhood is typical Chinese and very different from the chic and very westernized French Concession district where many of my coworkers live. I am enjoying the location in that I have ampile opportunity to practice Chinese with the locals. My landlady and next door neighboor, whom I can aiyi (Auntie) is wonderful, and as she knows no English, a perfect person with whom to practice.
My apartment is decent, but again, not as nice as many of the expats’. I have made several adjustments, and it is starting to feel like home.
There is so much I have done and seen in the last week, and I think the best way to share is through some pictures:
Shanghai from the highway.
Inside World Financial Center (China's tallest building).
Extra large xiaolongbao (Shanghai's famous soup dumplings).
Courtyard seating at The Studio Restaurant
Okay, Tex-Mex is likely not the first type of cuisine you think of when someone says Paris. In fact, as a born and bred Texan, I can tell you most Tex-Mex in Paris is barely tolerable. However, there is a hidden spot in The City of Lights serving up some surprisingly high-quality Tex-Mex at an even more surprising price.
The Studio, hidden within Le Marais (4th arrondissement), is a truly unique dining experience. You may have some trouble finding this restaurant situated off of rue de Temple. You enter through a long covered archway and follow a cobbled path with small boutiques lining either side. Just when you think you may be lost, the covered path gives way to an open air courtyard. This courtyard contains the patio seating for the restaurant, and the maitre d’ stand is placed immediately in front of the entrance. The Studio takes up one side of the square, while the other two sides of the two story building are actually devoted to a dance studio (Centre de Danse du Marais)!
The best place to sit is at one of the covered tables out in the courtyard where you can sip margaritas and look up through the windows lining the upper story of the dance studio to watch a dance class. When I have gone the past, I’ve seen classes practicing flamenco dancing and salsa.
My favorite combo: Margarita 8,5€ and Fajitas for one 18€
See their menu for all the other delicious options.
41, Rue du Temple
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 42 74 10 38
Happy Hour: 16h30 to 19h30
Metro: Chatelet or Hotel de Ville
Each cup of tea represents an imaginary voyage. — Catherine Douzel
Tea seems to be an international phenomenon having strong roots in many cultures. There is the English tea time, Japanese tea ceremony, and the distinctive mint tea of Morocco. As my departure for China approaches, I have been thinking a lot about tea. I am in the beginning phases of becoming a tea connoisseur. I drink a cup most every day. I know the differences between black tea, green tea, white tea, rooibos tea, and herbal tea (which isn’t really even tea). I’ve had matcha tea, yerba mate, even bubble tea.
China, however, seems to open up an entirely new realm of tea (or cha in Chinese). You can take tea tours in China, where you are guided around a region for several days/weeks sampling various teas. I am greatly looking forward to learning more about Chinese tea and the traditions surrounding its consumption. In the meantime I’ll share with you one of my most memorable tea experiences, which was in Paris at the famous Mariage Freres Tea Salon.
Photo Credit: Beth, mirsasha on Flickr
Founded in the mid-nineteenth-century, Mariage Freres is the most famous tea company in Paris. They have several salons du the (tea rooms) in Paris as well as locations throughout France and in Japan and Germany. During my first trip to Paris a group of friends and I decided to stop in for tea time. Likely most distinctive about Mariage Freres are the pressed white linen jackets and white gloves of the servers. One almost feels as if they have been transported back in time sitting in one of the upstairs rooms being served by these anachronistic attendants in their pristine uniforms. The selection at Mariage Freres is extensive, and teas are listed by both the leaf’s country of origin and by type. During our visit, I had an exquisite Chinese white tea. My companions sampled a variety of English breakfast and blossoming teas. Light refreshments can also be purchased with your tea service. We, however, were dissuaded by the high prices. The teas themselves range greatly in price from the more common to the exceptionally rare, but at Mariage Freres in Paris you are paying as much for the experience as for the tea itself.
Also, see Eye on Paris: Dammann Freres Tea Shop from Parisien Salon for another popular tea house in Paris.
Returning to Dallas I never believed I would have the fortune of finding the superb Mariage Freres tea back at home. Luckily, I was mistaken. There is a lovely tea shop in Dallas known as The Cultured Cup which offers a broad selection of Mariage Freres bag and loose-leaf tea both in containers to brew at home and by the cup for customers wanting to sit and enjoy their tea time in the shop. My personal favorite is L’Opera: a green tea enhanced with hints of red berries and precious spices.
Reading
I also recently received The Book of Tea by Kakuzo Okakura, which is a classic guide explaining how tea has affected Japanese culture.
What are you brewing in your tea cup? Let us know in the comments section!
Recent gift from my Aunt. Pocket mirror with Chinese characters.
French cards and my "Little Pink Book" of addresses.
1. Timeliness: Always strive to send out the note within one week after the event you attended or one week after receiving the gift.
Stationary
5. Target audience: Always keep in mind the recipient of your note when writing. Most important to tailor to the individual are the opening “Dear”, “Mr./Mrs./Ms.”, “Hello”; the closing “Yours truly”, “Best wishes”, “Sincerely”; and name line when addressing the envelope.
See posts from one of my favorite writers, Vicki Archer, on several thank you notes she received after hostessing a party in celebration of her daughter’s 21st birthday at her home in the South of France (here) and on her own extensive card collection (here).
