Eating bing tang hu lu in People's Park.
Fall is officially here in Shanghai. The weather has been lovely, cool and crisp, since my return from Chengdu (western China) after the National Holiday.
Juicy persimmon.
And with the cooler weather have come several new additions to the usual Shanghai snack (xiao chi: little eats) scene. Amidst the typical steamed buns, dumplings, and noodles; baked sweet potatoes, corn, yu tiao (literally oil strips), and persimmons have appeared. The moon cakes that ushered in the fall season have all but disappeared, now demoted to the discount shelves, and been replaced by steaming hot sugary soy milk and bing tang hu lu (candied fruit).
Gluten Balls in Chengdu
With all there is to choose from along the grocery store aisles and inside the street stalls, these seasonal treats have quickly become top-of-mind for me, erasing not only fashion but essentially all else from my mind as well.
Now, the question is: what’s to eat?
Do you have any favorite foods from your travels? Share in the comments below!
I have officially been living in China for a little over a month now, and the entire experience has been a roller-coaster of emotions. This is not my first time traveling to a foreign country, nor my first solo trip, however this is the first time I’ve lived in a foreign country on a semi-permanent basis (one-year assignment).
Before I left for Shanghai, I read an excellent article on Matador Network about the phases of culture-shock and how to combat them. Having lived in Paris solo last summer for four weeks, I wasn’t too concerned about home-sickness or any kind of cultural freak-out. And, while there hasn’t been a lowest of the low point yet during my time here, living in China is definitely proving to be more challenging emotionally than I had anticipated.
1. Say Goodbye to Anonymity
As I walk through the crowded streets of my Shanghai neighborhood, I am the only one with light hair and blue eyes. Plus, my extremely pale complexition starkly contrasts with the tan skin of those around me. Stares are coming from all sides at a mile a minute, some friendly and some not so much, but the common vein is that I can forget the idea of becoming invisible or losing myself in a crowd.
2. Why Can’t I Understand You?
I think one of the biggest contributors to culture shock is the lack of a shared language. Being in China, this is the first time I’ve been somewhere that I don’t have a very strong foundation in the local language. Though I have little difficulty getting by with my one year of college-level Mandarin, it is not enough to truly connect with people beyond the superficial or make Chinese-speaking friends. This causes one to never feel integrated into the culture, much less accepted.
3. I Miss American Things
Wow! I can’t believe I’m admitting to this, but it’s true! As much as I miss my family, friends, and TexMex, what I seem to miss the most are random American ways of thought or cultural values. Being from Texas, I think this is acutely felt. Hearing songs like “Country Road” have the effect of almost bringing me to tears. Here I have huge cravings to simply watch old re-runs, listen to country music, and eat a buttermilk biscuit. I guess I think this will bring me closer to the American values I am missing here.
4. Why Do You Call Me That?
In America there is a racial slur for most every ethnic group. These have evolved over time and are seen as politically incorrect and generally unacceptable. China is a little different. Though they have ethnic minorities that all fall into the category of Chinese, they do not have the overwhelming immigrant population that largely makes up the United States. Therefore, anytime they see someone who doesn’t look like them, they immediately know it is not an immigrant but a wai guo ren (literally outside the country person). The closest equivalent in English is foreigner. I am constantly called a wai guo ren in China. In fact, many people shout it as I walk past to alert others. It is not a derogatory or mean-spirited term, but simply indicates that I am not Chinese. However, the Chinese have another word they use to refer to foreigners: lao wai (literally old outside). Calling someone a lao wai might be similar to calling an American person a gringo/a in Mexico. However the term also carries the connotation that the person is stupid and generally inferior. Many may argue with me on this. In fact, the Chinese say that there is nothing negative meant by it, but it is just a cute or teasing term. Regardless, I despise this word. Since my arrival in China I’ve only been called lao wai twice (to my face), both times on the street. Once was by an older man and the other by a small child with his grandparents. The first time I started to cry and wanted to turn around and yell obstinacies at the man, and the second time my feelings were severely hurt, but I really just wanted to hide.
They talk about four stages of culture shock in the Matador article: wonder, frustration, depression, and acceptance. I think I battle with and totter between frustration and depression every day. However, there are many times when I travel outside of Shanghai or see something new that I am filled with absolute wonder. I believe I will likely continue to struggle against some form of culture shock throughout my trip. In fact, it’s only natural. However, I am hoping I will soon learn to accept my position here and be at peace with the four things that so far make it much more difficult to live here than I had initially thought.
See link to Matador’s: The Four Stages of Culture Shock (And How to Beat Them).
Porcelain found under the sink.
I love the scene in Under the Tuscan Sun when Frances (Diane Lane) has just moved into her newly bought property in Tuscany and is exploring all of the splendors and indiosyncracies it has to offer. I have inherited 10,000 empty wine bottles, one grape, every issue of ‘La Nazione’ printed in 1958, and assorted previous tenants.
Though my apartment didn’t come with any wine or even a grape, I do seem to have inherited various odds and ends from DVDs to what looks to be a Chinese manuscript to some beat-up wires. However, my prize, which I found under the kitchen sink, is a complete blue and white porcelain dining set. I found this treasure in a large cardboard box wrapped in plastic that looked as if it hadn’t been touched in several decades. The cardboard was wet and much of the box mildewed; however, all of the chinaware is in tact and gorgeous. Before I could even go to the store for paper plates or a coffee mug, I had a 50-piece China set complete with bowls, plates, sauce holders, serving spoons, and a casserole dish.
My apartment might not be the most luxurious, but atleast I feel like a queen when I eat my peanut butter and banana sandwiches off my exquiste blue and white china set.
Infront of Shanghai's famous teahouse in Yu Gardens.
I have officially arrived in China and begun my life as an English teacher in Shanghai. I am teaching “kindergartners” (3 to 6 year olds) at two different private schools.
I live just south of the city-center near the Xuhui district. My neighborhood is typical Chinese and very different from the chic and very westernized French Concession district where many of my coworkers live. I am enjoying the location in that I have ampile opportunity to practice Chinese with the locals. My landlady and next door neighboor, whom I can aiyi (Auntie) is wonderful, and as she knows no English, a perfect person with whom to practice.
My apartment is decent, but again, not as nice as many of the expats’. I have made several adjustments, and it is starting to feel like home.
There is so much I have done and seen in the last week, and I think the best way to share is through some pictures:
Shanghai from the highway.
Inside World Financial Center (China's tallest building).
Extra large xiaolongbao (Shanghai's famous soup dumplings).
Courtyard seating at The Studio Restaurant
Okay, Tex-Mex is likely not the first type of cuisine you think of when someone says Paris. In fact, as a born and bred Texan, I can tell you most Tex-Mex in Paris is barely tolerable. However, there is a hidden spot in The City of Lights serving up some surprisingly high-quality Tex-Mex at an even more surprising price.
The Studio, hidden within Le Marais (4th arrondissement), is a truly unique dining experience. You may have some trouble finding this restaurant situated off of rue de Temple. You enter through a long covered archway and follow a cobbled path with small boutiques lining either side. Just when you think you may be lost, the covered path gives way to an open air courtyard. This courtyard contains the patio seating for the restaurant, and the maitre d’ stand is placed immediately in front of the entrance. The Studio takes up one side of the square, while the other two sides of the two story building are actually devoted to a dance studio (Centre de Danse du Marais)!
The best place to sit is at one of the covered tables out in the courtyard where you can sip margaritas and look up through the windows lining the upper story of the dance studio to watch a dance class. When I have gone the past, I’ve seen classes practicing flamenco dancing and salsa.
My favorite combo: Margarita 8,5€ and Fajitas for one 18€
See their menu for all the other delicious options.
41, Rue du Temple
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 42 74 10 38
Happy Hour: 16h30 to 19h30
Metro: Chatelet or Hotel de Ville
Each cup of tea represents an imaginary voyage. — Catherine Douzel
Tea seems to be an international phenomenon having strong roots in many cultures. There is the English tea time, Japanese tea ceremony, and the distinctive mint tea of Morocco. As my departure for China approaches, I have been thinking a lot about tea. I am in the beginning phases of becoming a tea connoisseur. I drink a cup most every day. I know the differences between black tea, green tea, white tea, rooibos tea, and herbal tea (which isn’t really even tea). I’ve had matcha tea, yerba mate, even bubble tea.
China, however, seems to open up an entirely new realm of tea (or cha in Chinese). You can take tea tours in China, where you are guided around a region for several days/weeks sampling various teas. I am greatly looking forward to learning more about Chinese tea and the traditions surrounding its consumption. In the meantime I’ll share with you one of my most memorable tea experiences, which was in Paris at the famous Mariage Freres Tea Salon.
Photo Credit: Beth, mirsasha on Flickr
Founded in the mid-nineteenth-century, Mariage Freres is the most famous tea company in Paris. They have several salons du the (tea rooms) in Paris as well as locations throughout France and in Japan and Germany. During my first trip to Paris a group of friends and I decided to stop in for tea time. Likely most distinctive about Mariage Freres are the pressed white linen jackets and white gloves of the servers. One almost feels as if they have been transported back in time sitting in one of the upstairs rooms being served by these anachronistic attendants in their pristine uniforms. The selection at Mariage Freres is extensive, and teas are listed by both the leaf’s country of origin and by type. During our visit, I had an exquisite Chinese white tea. My companions sampled a variety of English breakfast and blossoming teas. Light refreshments can also be purchased with your tea service. We, however, were dissuaded by the high prices. The teas themselves range greatly in price from the more common to the exceptionally rare, but at Mariage Freres in Paris you are paying as much for the experience as for the tea itself.
Also, see Eye on Paris: Dammann Freres Tea Shop from Parisien Salon for another popular tea house in Paris.
Returning to Dallas I never believed I would have the fortune of finding the superb Mariage Freres tea back at home. Luckily, I was mistaken. There is a lovely tea shop in Dallas known as The Cultured Cup which offers a broad selection of Mariage Freres bag and loose-leaf tea both in containers to brew at home and by the cup for customers wanting to sit and enjoy their tea time in the shop. My personal favorite is L’Opera: a green tea enhanced with hints of red berries and precious spices.
Reading
I also recently received The Book of Tea by Kakuzo Okakura, which is a classic guide explaining how tea has affected Japanese culture.
What are you brewing in your tea cup? Let us know in the comments section!
Recent gift from my Aunt. Pocket mirror with Chinese characters.
French cards and my "Little Pink Book" of addresses.
1. Timeliness: Always strive to send out the note within one week after the event you attended or one week after receiving the gift.
Stationary
5. Target audience: Always keep in mind the recipient of your note when writing. Most important to tailor to the individual are the opening “Dear”, “Mr./Mrs./Ms.”, “Hello”; the closing “Yours truly”, “Best wishes”, “Sincerely”; and name line when addressing the envelope.
See posts from one of my favorite writers, Vicki Archer, on several thank you notes she received after hostessing a party in celebration of her daughter’s 21st birthday at her home in the South of France (here) and on her own extensive card collection (here).
Fusion of East and West in Paris: 8th arrondissement
Last summer I embarked on a month-long research trip to Paris to study chinoiserie: an 18th century artistic movement begun in France that centers on the accommodation of “Chinese” imagery into European ornamental designs. Chinoiserie is a small subhead under the much larger umbrella of what Edward Said termed orientalism: the reductive ”othering” or “orientalizing” of the “East” by the “West”. Said argues that the exoticized images we see in works such as Ingres’ Odalisque represent a tangible manifestation of the larger discourse of western civilization’s creation of an “other” or an us/them binary.
Orientalism is still alive today as seen in the Japanese screens, happy Buddha statuettes, and other “eastern” objects we use to decorate our homes. You say, “Wait, maybe a knick knack is just that and nothing more!” Unfortunately, in a world where orientalist tendencies have become so ingrained in our culture, a knick knack is rarely just that. Most westerners exoticize Asia as mysterious, traditional, and romantic; eroticize it as tantalizing, sensuous, and lavish; and demoralize it as grotesque, backwards, and incomprehensible. Whether heralding it as a mysterious and intriguing land steeped in ancient tradition or debasing it as a bestial land full of corruption and nepotism, many western views ignore the nuances of Asia and lump it together as one large stagnant and timeless half of the world that can be analyzed, admired, denounced, and most of all orientalized by the “West”.
As an art historian, I am familiar with the many art movements tied to the orientalist discourse: orientalism, Japonisme, chinoiserie, primitivism, and their more contemporary equivalents. However, little did I realize how alive and deeply rooted in Parisien culture orientalism would be when I arrived in 21st century Paris. Almost immediately upon arriving I noticed directly across the street from my apartment a shop that peddles goods from Asia and a Japanese sushi restaurant. Later I would see countless shops dedicated to “authentic” Asian curiosities, hundreds of Asian restaurants, a three-story Chinese pagoda in the middle of a grande boulevard, and a museum exhibition dedicated to terracotta warriors from Xi’an, China.
All in all, I concluded the relationship between France and China is evolving on almost a daily basis. Exoticism and orientalism are still strong forces in France today, however so are the fields of sinology and ethnography.
Food
Thai curry at Mai Tai Restaurant, 3rd arrondissement
In Paris you will find Asian food galore! There are two Chinatowns in Paris but also many restaurants serving excellent Asian cuisine sprinkled throughout most every neighborhood in the city. I have seen restaurant signs for Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese, Indian, and the list continues. This photo is of a meal at a Thai food restaurant, Mai Thai, in Le Marais. The green curry and mango with sticky rice were fabulous! Though most every city in the world has Asian food restaurants, particularly international cities such as Paris, the prominence and exotic decor of these spots throughout the city speak to Parisiens’ continued love of “the East”.
Art and Architecture
C.T. Cie & Loo Chinese art emporium, 8th arrondissement
The art and architecture of Paris may be the most constant reminder of the city as a key player in the 19th century orientalist discourse, and much of what is seen today reveals just how untarnished the idea of “the exotic Orient” is in the eyes of Paris. Likely the most iconic image of “the East” in Paris is I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid at the Louvre Museum. This modern representation of the ancient Egyptian pyramids juxtaposed against the Renaissance architecture of the Louvre is meant to convey the interconnectedness of past and present and speak to the Louvre’s collection of world art.
Lesser known, but also extremely intriguing, is a three-story pagoda in the middle of the 8th arrondissement’s grandes boulevards. This structure is C.T. Cie & Loo: a Chinese art emporium built in the late 19th century by a Chinese immigrant to France. The building, modeled after a Chinese pagoda, is sharply contrasted by the 18th century French style apartments that surround it on all sides. The survival of the emporium from the 19th century, at the height of China-mania, until today speaks to the continued demand for Chinese “curiosities” and also a growing appreciation for contemporary Chinese art.
I.M. Pei's famous glass pyramid juxtaposed with Renaissance architecture at the Louvre Museum
Outside of the art galleries and many shops dedicated to Chinese “curiosities” are the many Parisien museums dedicated to Asian art. Interestingly, many of these museums were formerly private collections of wealthy Europeans that have now been donated to the city. Prime examples are the Musee Cernuschi (once the extensive collection of Italian Henri Cernuschi), the collection of which is still housed in the renovated mansion of the original collector, the Musee Guimet (an extensive Asian art collection of an avid 19th century collector), and the Musee d’Ennery (nearly 7,000 decorative art objects from Asia also collected by a wealthy couple). Today these are widely visited as “Asian art museums”, but few think about the original owners of these objects and their motivations for amassing such collections.
Painting by Philippe Auge hung in bar, 1st arrondissement
Finally, outside the museum and gallery world, works such as the one here by Philippe Auge are seen decorating restaurants, hotels, and shops.
The “Oriental” feel of these pieces are intended to add an additional layer of ambiance to their surroundings. Again, the exoticism seen in these images serves an ornamental purpose and packages “Eastern” culture as a consumable commodity.
- Window front of plastics shop, 6th arrondissement
However, most surprising to see between the modern boutiques and cafes are the antique or curiosity shops claiming to sell “authentic Oriental goods.” These shops are filled with what appear to be centuries old medallions, snuff bottles, and ceramics. Any genuine objects of this age were likely traded on the black market. However, many pieces are in actuality European-made and quite contemporary. The continued patronage of these shops, along with the more commercialized stores such as the plastiques window front seen to the left, illustrate a continued desire for the an exotic and “orientalized” Asia that exists only in the mind and is perpetuated by the centuries old Orientalist discourse.
The relationship between “East” and “West” today is ever complicated, but contemporary Paris provides unique insight into the centuries old connection.
Thoughts? Please comment below!
Today's arrivals from Barnes and Noble
I admit it! I have an addiction. A book addiction. Since childhood I have been enchanted by books and can quickly become entirely absorbed with the narratives captured on the pages between their covers. When I was a little girl, a woman in a bookshop stopped me and said something that now seems simple but at the time appeared so enlightening that I wrote it down: “Reading can open you up to whole new worlds and take you to places you’ve never been.”
So, situated next to my chronic wanderlust, rests inside me a deep-seated love for books and all of the adventures on which they have and continue to take me.
A Barnes and Noble delivery is like Christmas morning at my house. Here’s what arrived today:
1. The Geography of Bliss: One Grump’s Search for the Happiest Places in the World by Eric Weiner
I found this months ago when I was looking at the reviews for another book I had read. Since then, many travellers have endorsed it as something special! Can’t wait to see for myself. I am thinking this will be an excellent book for the plane ride to Shanghai.
2. Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert
I know I’m behind the curve on this one. Many, many people have recommended this, and some have also ranted about how much they loathe it. I’m ready to see for myself!
3. Persuasion by Jane Austen
My favorite Jane Austen novel! I can’t leave for China without a copy, and the gargantuan hard backs I’ve had for years might just put me over the weight limit. This compact copy will be perfect for travel.
4. P.S. I Love You by Cecelia Ahern
Again, I’m behind on this one. I saw the movie last year and absolutely fell in love. I knew I had to read the book version! After all, aren’t the books always better than the movies?
5. Julie & Julia by Julie Powell
I am so excited to see this movie when it hits the silver screen! I love the idea about being inspired by a cultural icon, especially one as unique as Julia Child. I know several people have inspired me in a similar way (Hmm, maybe I should write a book too?), and just as Julia inspired Julie, I’m sure Julie Powell will offer something here to inspire us all!
Read a good book lately? Share in the comments!
Glass Rhino from South Africa, collected by @velvetescape
This Ngwenya glass rhino is one of my favourite souvenirs. I bought it in a tiny shop at the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, SouthAfrica. It’s made by a co-operative of glass makers in Swaziland who work with recycled Coca Cola bottles. The Ngwenyaglass project, founded by a Swedish non-profit organization, creates employment opportunities and alleviates poverty while teaching the age-old craft of glass-blowing to and instilling a sense of environmental awareness in Swazis. The green tint of the Coca Cola glass bottles is easily recognisable. The rhino stands proudly with its head facing the entrance of my home – I placed it this way when a feng shuimaster told me that a rhino figurine in this position works as a protective charm. — Keith (see Keith’s blog, Velvet Escapes, or follow him at @velvetescape)
Trophy from Tour d'Afrique (South Africa); collected by @theplanetd
One of our most meaningful souvenirs of late would have to be my trophy from the Tour d’Afrique. We saw early on that I had a great chance of becoming Women’s Champion of this 12,000km cycling race from Cairo to Cape Town. Dave was guaranteed a top 5 finish and won the title of EFI (every fabulous inch) so he put in all of his efforts to helping me win. We worked as a team for four months. It is as much Dave’s trophy (if not more) as it is mine and we proudly display it front and center in our living room. — Dave and Deb (See their blog, The Planet D, or follow them at @theplanetd)
Tin Tower from Paris, France; collected by @parisiensalon
There’s a delightful little shop on avenue Bosquet in Paris’ 7th arrondissement called Florent Monestier, and each time I’m in Paris, I pay a visit. When you walk in the door and turn right, there are shelves and shelves of these collectible tin toys. None are made in France, but there is something so Parisien about them, at least to me. I’ve collected quite a few of them, and each time I look at them, I think of my love for the rue Cler neighborhood and my many visits there. — Linda (See Linda’s blog, Parisien Salon, or follow her at @parisiensalon)
Cherub Sconce from Tuscany, Italy; collected by @wanderlustwomen
After two weeks traveling through Tuscany my suitcase was just about full; however, we stopped in lovely Pienza one night, which is known for alabaster gifts. I was about to walk out of the shop when I turned to exit and noticed this cherubic sconce on the wall. I just had to have it. The shop owner and my friend laughed because they knew by the expression on my face. She bubble-wrapped it well, and I carried it on the plane. That was pre-911; I don’t know if I would get away with it now. — Lisa (See Lisa’s blog, Travel Dreams and Moonbeams, or follow her at @wanderlustwomen)
- Mask from Venice, Italy; collected by @KirbyRenee
This is an authentic Venetian mask from Venice, Italy. I went there two years ago and thought this to be a must-have souvenir because they are famous in Venice, and you see them everywhere! Though it is not hard to find a place selling these masks, the innumerable selections make it difficult to decide on just one. — Kirby (Follow Kirby at @KirbyRenee)
Watercolor of Colleseum from Rome, Italy, collected by @KirbyRenee
I bought this watercolor of the Colosseum done by a local artist in Rome. Artists set up their stands throughout the city, and you can find prints at very reasonable costs. This is a great, inexpensive souvenir that can be a meaningful piece of art in your home. I have a wall that serves as an on-going collection of all my favorite pieces. — Kirby (Follow Kirby at @KirbyRenee)
Moroccan Rug collected by @solotraveler
Traveling solo I tend to travel light and rarely collect souvenirs along the way. But special things can be shipped. In 2002, I bought two rugs in Morocco. This one sits in front of my fireplace. — Janice (See her blog, Solo Traveler, or follow her at @solotraveler)
- Ink Drawing of Ganesh from Chennai, India; collected by @journeywoman
I’ve been travelling solo for 27 years. In that time I’ve visited 60 countries and, as you can imagine, countless gift shops. It makes sense then that I tired of souvenir shops a long time ago. Instead I seek out artists who create art for tourists in markets around the world. The majority of pieces in my collection are under $20 and are wonderful reminders of the places I’ve been and the people I’ve met. One of my favorite souvenirs is from an artisans’ village outside of Chennai, India. A gentleman designing batik pillow cases caught my eye and I stopped to watch him creating likenesses of the God Ganesh, one of the best-known deities in India. I loved his interpretations and asked him if he would create an ink drawing for me. I gave him a piece of imperfect, slightly crumpled computer paper that, by chance, I had in my backpack. Two hours later I returned to pick up my art and asked the artist to name his price. His bill amounted to seventy-five cents in my Canadian currency. His beautifully detailed drawing complete with a whimsical mouse in the bottom left-hand corner now hangs framed in my kitchen reminding me of a lovely man in an unforgettable country. — Evelyn (See Evelyn’s website, Journeywoman.com, or follow her at @journeywoman)
- Turquoise ring from Xpuha, Mexico, collected by @ashleyindallas (Me)
One of my favorite things to collect during my travels is jewelry. I like the idea of something made by a local artisan that is unique to the specific culture. Also, something portable that can adorn the body serves as a great conversation piece I can carry with me while at home in Texas or during my travels. This piece I purchased at a small arts and crafts exposition held at our resort in Xpuha (about an hour outside of Cancun). — Ashley (Follow me at @ashleyindallas)
- Watercolor prints from Paris, France; collected by @ashleyindallas
Asking everyone last week about their favorite things to collect as souvenirs, I was overwhelmed by the number of people who responded with local art works. Collecting local artwork is something I have been trying to start doing during my travels, and some locales lend to this better than others. Here are four watercolor prints I purchased from an artist in Paris. I had a difficult time finding pieces I liked in Paris; they all seemed either too kitsch or way out of my price point. I found these prints from an artist set up inside the courtyard of the Place des Vosges. His originals were very expensive, but the prints were extremely reasonable. Having the chance to chat with the artist about painting, Paris, and even my Texas governor make these some of my most memorable souvenirs. — Ashley (Follow me at @ashleyindallas)
